Thursday, 3 October 2013

Autumn Classes

What can I say, all of a sudden our sewing classes have really taken off and all classes are full, including our winter ones..

I have put our New Year 2014 January course schedule up on line early so bookings can begin as some students have missed out on the winter classes due to bookings happening at a fast pace, seems everyone wants to learn to sew!

Both Teresa and myself are really enjoying teaching our new students and also our returning ones.

To see students coming to us with their sewing machines and not knowing how to thread it, to seeing some of the projects that they produce after doing some of our courses is really up lifting and rewarding for us.

I have included some of our students creations for you to view, I hope you like them as much as we enjoyed seeing them being created!

Debra’s beautiful shoulder bag made from a recycled dress.

Pillbox hat

Jackie’s shoulder bag with beaded hemline and velvet top.

Joan spent a long time on this multi-layered owl patchwork cushion.

Mr Owl is a project for level 2 beginners class and is a winner with all the students!

Beautiful corsage’s made for Deb’s 

This is a very small selection of the projects being produced by the students at our school. To see some fantastic creations go to our web site at www.theartofsewing.ie or follow us on facebook at The Art of Sewing and Crafting School and please like our page.


Wednesday, 22 May 2013

Pattern Drafting Classes



Our pattern cutting classes are finally going great guns! 

Teacher and students are really enjoying them. 
Lots being taught and learned with patterns now being turned into garments.

We started with body measurements of each student and then they were converted into master blocks that can be used to make future garments that fit perfect.

Some pictures below:






                                                              www.theartofsewing.ie

Monday, 13 May 2013

What does the word Haberdashery mean?

In short, haberdashery means Sewing Accessories:

We use this term to describe the items used to complete a project or a garment. I will name but a few and what we use them for. Some are practical use while others are for decorative purposes only.

Zips: Used mostly for fastening purposes, but can also be used to decorate. There is a large range of zips available today.

Press Studs: A two part opening ball and socket. Easy to do and undo so are often used bed linen and children’s clothing.

Hook & Eye: Used in places where edges meet, like top of necklines or waistbands. Can be bought in various sizes, finishes and colours

Hook & Bar: Use where one edge covers the other.

Buttons: Use for fastenings or decoratively. There are 2 styles of buttons, (Sew-through and Shank). The Sew-through style will have either 2 or 4 holes that allows the button to be stitched flat onto the fabric. The Shank style has no holes showing on the front of the button and has a small loop on the under side, this allows more fabric to sit under the button. Buttons can be uncovered or covered with fabric to match you item. There is no end to the button collections available today.

Piping Cord: This is a raised cord edging, used to trim seams of tailored garments or soft furnishings. Can be bought in various thicknesses.

Bias Binding: Pre-made bias binding is available in many colours and widths. Use this to edge and neaten raw edges. Can also be used to cover piping cord to form a decorative edge around cushions or in seams. You can also make your own.

Boning: Usually added to to the seams of garments to hold the bodice in place and to emphasize the body shape. Available in plastic, solid or coiled metal. it also helps to eliminate any wrinkles in the seams.

Lace Edging: Used mostly in bridal or evening wear as a decorative edging. Comes in silk, cotton and synthetic.

I will stop there as I could go on forever with the amount of accessories available to us today!








Thursday, 18 April 2013

Types of Threads

Always select the strength and colour according to the type and colour of the fabric you are using.

The rule of thumb is, if using cotton fabric you should use cotton thread, but I find it much easier and more cost effective to use a multipurpose polyester thread for most fabric types. It is strong and has a little stretch so works well for both machine and hand stitching.

So here is a little guide for you:
  1. Cotton Thread: ideal for machine and hand stitching on fabrics like cottons, rayons and linens
  2. Polyester Thread: Use this on most fabrics as it is strong yet elastic. Synthetic and natural fabrics
  3. Basting Thread: A weak thread that is easily pulled and broken off. Use this only for temporary (not permanent) stitching.
  4. Silk Thread: This is a very fine thread and is best used with silk and lightweight fine wools and fabric.
  5. Buttonhole Twist: A thick strong silk thread used for buttonholes and attaching buttons.
  6. Large Spooled Thread: This comes in all popular thread colour. It will fit over the spool pin on a machine but is mostly used with a Serger machine as this type of machine uses a large amount of thread.



Wednesday, 27 March 2013

Some pictures from our sewing classes...











Your Sewing Workspace

If you are going to do a lot of sewing or crafting it is a wise decision to get yourself sorted, organize a work space that is only for the purpose you need, which is yours alone. It makes a lot of difference if you don’t have to put everything away, every time you need to leave in the middle of your creativity.
Below I have listed some essentials to getting started.

There are the top essentials you should have to get the best final result from your workroom.

  1. A good quality sewing machine with some basic presser feet (Straight stitch, zipper, button hole and button attachment foot). 
  2. An adjustable chair with wheels and sewing table for machine
  3. A good steam iron and an adjustable iron board. (Always press as you sew)
  4. A comfortable table or bench (set at the about 34” up from the floor) for your cutting needs is a must. 
  5. A Serger / Overlocker machine for a professional finish to those projects (not an essential), but well worth having if you plan on doing a lot of sewing.
  6. Great lighting 
  7. Storage for all your goodies and fabrics

Above is all the larger expense you will have, you can then start to build your cutting equipment.
  1. Dressmakers Shears are essential for cutting out fabric and should only be used for this purpose.
  2. Sewing / Embroidery scissors are needed for trimming threads.
  3. A seam ripper is needed for unpicking sewing mistakes and opening buttonholes.
Other basic equipment needed:
  1. Pins & pin cushion
  2. A Magnet to pick up fallen pins and needles
  3. Needles (both for hand sewing and machine sewing)
  4. A thimble for hand sewing
  5. Tape measure
  6. Tailor’s chalk or other water-or-air soluble marking pens
  7. Needle Threaders
  8. Hot-iron cleaner
There are lots of special tools for special functions to make sewing more enjoyable,  so add these as and when you can afford them.

Do remember though, as you add to your equipment, fabrics and accessories, everything will need to be cleaned and cared for.

Good luck setting up you space!

Friday, 15 March 2013

Preshrink before use!

If you plan on washing or laundering your project you should always preshrink the fabric before using it, this will avoid any issues with fit later on.

It is important to know how much the fabric will shrink (if it does). There is nothing worse than buying the recommended amount of fabric for a project and then to find you don’t have enough.

The best way to tell how much a fabric will shrink is to test it first.

  • Start by cutting out a 4” square from the fabric at one corner (do not include the selvage)
  • Mark an arrow pointing down the lengthwise grain with a permanent pen. This will allow you to gage which way the fabric is shrinking more, if it is the length or the width. (Fabric usually shrinks more on the length that the width)
  • Really wet the square and then iron it until it is fully dry.
  • Now remeasure the square of fabric to see if there has been any shrinkage on either the length or the width.
  • If the 4” length has shrunk by quarter of an inch, then the yard of fabric will shrink by two and a quarter inches.
  • You will need to buy extra fabric to allow for this.....  


There are a few points to remember when preshrinking fabric!

  1. If the project is to be laundered after you have finished, you must launder the fabric in the same manner before cutting out. Use detergent and fabric softeners normal.
  2. Be careful to watch for colour run and dye bleeds as this could stain under and over garments later. So wash the fabric and check for colourfastness. If the colour bleeds, you may want to wash the fabric a second time.
  3. Do not over-crowd the washing machine and remove the fabric after the wash to avoid wrinkling and fabric wear (pilling)
  4. Serge the edges of woven fabrics to prevent them from raveling in the wash.
  5. If the fabric is dry-clean only, you can steam-shrink it with a very good steam iron. Just use steam and don’t touch the fabric with the iron surface. Hold the iron about 1” above until fabric becomes damp. Let the fabric dry naturally.
  6. Home furnishing fabrics usually have a stain-repellent finish on them and cannot be washed. You can steam-press to get the shrinkage.
  7. Pre-shrink all the components of your project (just in case)
HAPPY PRESHRINKING!!!!